Iza’s Ballad: The Book Made Me Go to Budapest
A book that made me book a flight to Budapest. I guess it was one of the best decisions. Right now, crying here in “Vinikli” while enjoying Hungarian wine, still feeling so happy that I am here. Thank you Magda Szabó.
Oh, my heart. This book is why I’m sitting here in Budapest, crying my eyes out as I read the final pages. What a story… my heart is shattered into pieces. My dear Etelka. My dear Iza.
My journey with Hungarian literature began with Sándor Márai’s Portraits of a Marriage, which remains one of my favorite books. But this one, written by the talented Magda Szabó, is just as incredible. Reading the final pages in the very place where it all unfolded is truly a magical experience.
In Etelka, I saw so much of my own mother, and in the things Iza did thinking she was helping her mother, but slowly, unintentionally causing her to wither like a flower, I unfortunately found myself in her.
After my family lost their first child, perhaps because I am the only child my family had later in life, I empathized with the book deeply — I’m not sure — but it touched me profoundly. I felt an incredible sense of regret for every time I was unsympathetic toward my mother. At the same time, just like Etelka, Iza’s life was also changed, and I can truly relate to the turmoil and confusion she went through.
So, on so many levels, this book touched me, and I didn’t know I was going to be affected this much. One of the main themes is loneliness — not in the sense of living alone, but in being alone in this world. Losing the people around you, whether willingly or unwillingly, is not easy, and poor Iza is losing everyone all of a sudden. After the death of her father — who deserves another storyline for sure, because I am so curious about this brave man’s story — she is left alone with her mother, not knowing what to do, and then… puff.
The sense of feeling “necessary” is such a profound thing we need in life, and in this story, Etelka needed it so much. It’s not because her daughter didn’t love her, but Iza’s efforts to make her life easier were draining her life energy. A woman who suddenly lost her husband, her home, and her routine found herself like a decorative piece in the corner of Budapest. What she was going through inside, her daughter didn’t understand, and her daughter didn’t understand her, and neither did her ex-husband. The list goes on. No matter how close we are to each other, no matter how unconditionally we love each other, we can be so harmful when we fail to understand each other.
A story that helps its readers reflect on the dynamics of their relationships. And gosh, the way the author wrote this story… So simple, without using unnecessary flowery language — such mastery to impact the reader.
I was so moved that as I started reading, I planned my Budapest trip in my mind, and now, as I write this, I am here in Budapest. I’d also like to share my humble recommendations for places to visit in Budapest — must-see tourist attractions are not listed here, you can use Google for that.
One piece of advice to rule them all: make sure you have one extra day just to stroll on the streets of this beautiful city and simply enjoy existing. Especially during this time, it is so magical here, and I wish I had a few extra days to enjoy the city or perhaps a few months. As a solo traveler, I recommend finding an Airbnb or hotel near the restaurants. As you can see from the map in my guide, the market location called “Ev” was where my Airbnb was, and it was so convenient, especially after enjoying all the delicious Hungarian wine.
There are certain places recommended by everyone on social media, and honestly, some of them feel a bit overrated. They’re just spots made for Instagram photos. One of them is “Twentysix.” I’m not saying it’s a terrible place, but I just don’t get the hype. The service was slow, even though there were plenty of staff, and the portions were small — especially the wine, which was just a couple of sips before it was gone. I live in Italy, so I’m not a fan of small wine servings.
Also, “My Little Melbourne” was on my way to my apartment once I arrived in the city center, so I decided to try it right away. Honestly, it wasn’t anything special — just an average cafe.
But Artisan Budapest, 9BAR, Zerge, and Espresso Embassy were really good. Oh, and speaking of overrated places, there’s another one: New York Cafe, where I took the picture with my lovely book. Oh my god… it’s a total tourist trap. The design is lovely, but that’s about it. I want my 20 euros back.
As for the food, I didn’t have any bad experiences because I mostly stuck to the traditional recommended spots. Szimply, Lumen, Getto Gulyas (10 out of 10), and Bors GastroBar will definitely satisfy you. I only had four days there, and one was dedicated to just enjoying life, while the first day was spent doing the “must-see” activities in the Buda area. I think everyone should take a trip with a buggy there. The main reason for me was that I had a minor injury on my leg, so I couldn’t risk walking too much. But it was worth it, and it was very well planned — they had a new car coming every five minutes, so there was no rush.
I’m neither a travel guide nor a food expert, but if you’d like, I can share my guide — though I’m not sure how to shorten an Apple Maps link, but I’ll give it a try! In any case, I’m completely in love with this book, the city, and the story. The next book on my list, recommended by the lovely staff at Vinikli, is Abigail by Magda Szabó. I can’t wait to dive into a new universe created by Magda! And a heartfelt thank you to this talented author for helping me realize the important things in life and for making me discover Budapest.
